Wind Waves and Swell
Though the directional properties of coastal waves have been widely investigated, these studies focused only on wind waves under moderate sea conditions. In this study, we illustrated the directional properties of wind waves and swell with various scales. We used the bottom mounted ADCP which can record even under severe conditions and estimate the highly resolved wave directional spectrum with the Bayesian directional method. We indicated the dependence of directional properties of the swell on wave steepness can be different from ones of wind sea.