Breaking Waves and Turbulence

Oral

1155 - Numerical Investigation Of Plunging Breakers Over A Porous Artificial Surf Reef

Presenting Author(s)

• KK

  Kasper Kaergaard

Additional Author #1(s)

• BJ

  Bjarne Jensen, PhD

  Senior Hydraulic Engineer
  DHI

Additional Author #2(s)

• KG

  Karl-Søren Geertsen
• JR

  Johan Rønby

Additional Author #3(s)

• SM

  Simon Mortsensen

This paper presents the results of a numerical investigation of breaking waves over an artificial surf reef (ASR). We focus on two aspects of an ASR in relation to the effect of the porous reef: 1) a general analysis of the hydrodynamics of a plunging breaker over a reef, and 2) evaluation of specific parameters for describing the surfability and safety of the plunging breaker. The novelty of the work presented lays in the detailed inclusion of the porous reef structure in a numerical model that is applied for designing and evaluating an ASR.